Year: 2023

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What is olfactory layering and how to do it with perfumes from Florence. Episode 1.

Welcome to the first episode of this captivating SPV series. Given the number of fragrances we have created in our 33 years of activity, I foresee many episodes and perhaps even more than one season!

For some time now, the concept of olfactory layering has been on the lips of perfume enthusiasts for a very simple reason: olfactory layering is fun and creative.

But let’s start from the beginning. In the context of perfumes, olfactory layering refers to the structure of a fragrance and the division of its olfactory notes into different stages of evolution. A well-crafted perfume is often composed of various notes that develop over time, creating a layered and dynamic olfactory experience.

The notes of a perfume can be divided into three main categories:

  • Top notes (or opening notes): These are the first notes perceived upon applying the perfume and they have an immediate impact. Top notes are often light and volatile, lasting for a short period of time, and can include ingredients such as citrus, aromatic herbs, or fresh notes.
  • Heart notes (or middle notes): They emerge after the top notes have dissipated and constitute the core of the perfume. These notes are more stable and long-lasting compared to the top notes. They can include flowers, fruits, or spices, adding personality to the fragrance.
  • Base notes: These are the most persistent and long-lasting notes of the perfume, emerging after the heart notes have settled and providing stability to them over time. Base notes can include ingredients such as woods, moss, amber, or vanilla.

Each olfactory experience is complex and engaging because each phase of a perfume’s note evolution adds a different dimension to the fragrance, creating a unique olfactory harmony and narrative. The creation of a perfume is always driven by this goal and requires extensive knowledge of raw materials and chemistry, professionalism, discipline, and talent.

Olfactory layering can also be achieved by using existing perfumes as the top, heart, or base of a new fragrance, allowing everyone to create their own scent based on their inspiration and creativity, even without being a professional perfumer. It’s a game without rules, where the only thing that matters is personalization. Each individual can create something that speaks of themselves.

Layering can intensify certain olfactory notes present in the original fragrance or enrich a fragrance predominantly featuring a single ingredient. One fragrance born from the experimentation of layering at Spezierie Palazzo Vecchio is KATALEYA, created by layering our PATCHOULI ROSSO and our AMBRA DEL NEPAL.

The fragrance AMBRA DEL NEPAL is a structured fragrance with a slightly aromatic top note of coriander and a base of grey amber, incense, vanilla, and patchouli. It is a fragrance that I define as speaking to the soul, as it directly connects with our spiritual side. Our PATCHOULI ROSSO, on the other hand, is a fragrance predominantly centered around the natural essential oil of patchouli. It is an earthy fragrance that highlights the more grounded, real, and present aspects of our being.

I wanted to intensify the subtle Patchouli present in AMBRA DEL NEPAL to create a fragrance where the earthy and spiritual aspects could be in balance, highlighting our entire being. Thus, to a significant base of AMBRA DEL NEPAL, I added a small percentage of PATCHOULI ROSSO and created KATALEYA,.

I am sharing the creative process behind this perfume because I am confident that it will inspire all of you to unleash your creativity and tell a small piece of your story and essence through fragrance and the beautiful game of olfactory layering.

I could have also done another layering with AMBRA DEL NEPAL, creating a floral, fruity, or spicy fragrance to serve as its heart… but I leave the experimentation to you!

Don’t miss the next episode of this series.

Francesca Di Massimo.

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MICOCOMPLEX – BIO: certified organic mushrooms extracts

MICOCOMPLEX is composed of SHITAKE, MAITAKE, CORDYCEPS, REISHI and ABM.

The most well-known of these is REISHI (GANODERMA LUCIDUM), considered the King of mushrooms that exerts its main tropism on the central nervous system with cortisone-like action. It is an excellent remedy for allergic and inflammatory states and respiratory problems due to its very high content of germanium that increases mitochondrial respiration.

SHITAKE (LENTINULA EDODES), a mushroom widely used in traditional Japanese cuisine, has a particularly active tropism on the immune system. It stimulates the production of T helper lymphocytes, useful in attacks by viruses and bacteria. It has a strongly alkalizing action, thus reducing tissue acidosis, which is the cause of many pathologies, and is an excellent source of Vitamin D, therefore a preventive remedy for caries and periodontal disease.

ABM (AGARICUS BLAZEI MUELLER) is a mushroom native to Brazil, considered the most powerful shield among mushrooms against endogenous and exogenous toxins and the most powerful against cell degeneration due to its very high concentration of Beta-glucans. It is an excellent remedy for autoimmune disorders due to its ability to balance the function of the TH1 and TH2 systems. It is the only fungus with a specific tropism for the thyroid gland, regulating its functions in case of hypo or hyperactivity.

MAITAKE (GRIFOLA FRONDOSA), a mushroom native to Japan, is considered the heart-protective fungus due to its ability to reduce glucose and regulate insulin receptors. It has a vagotonic action with a reduction in nervous hunger. It helps reduce lipid accumulation in the liver and tissues and stimulates the body to use food intake by limiting its deposition as fats and improving thermogenesis, which is the mechanism by which the body burns calories. It also helps stabilize good cholesterol and  keep both bad cholesterol and blood sugar under control. In particular, by sensitizing insulin receptors, it activates glucose metabolism. Polysaccharides, which Maitake is made of, have a unique biochemical structure and are among the most powerful molecules currently known. They are highly bioavailable and have been extensively studied for their immunomodulatory activity – suitable for genes, antitumor and anti-HIV. The activity of Maitake and in particular of the D polysaccharide fraction is the subject of continuous research for its important inhibitory effect on tumor growth and for its powerful antimetastatic action.”¹

CORDYCEPS SINENSIS is a fungus native to the Tibetan mountains that develops specific strategies to optimize oxygen consumption and produce cellular energy: this is why it has such an important role in giving tone and energy. Cordyceps, considered a real restorative, actually increases ATP levels, which is the molecule that releases energy to cells, thus increasing the overall energy that can be used by the body and improving aerobic performance. It also increases DHEA production, the hormone of youth, and has a tonic effect on the genital system by increasing blood flow, improving erection in men and desire in women.²

FRANCESCA MAESTRELLI

ERBORISTA, IRIDOLOGA  e AROMATERAPEUTA

For advices or request of information please contact us on the live chat or call us at 0552396055 or write to info@spezieriepalazzovecchio.it

WARNING: The information contained on this site is presented for informational purposes only and can in no way constitute the formulation of a diagnosis or the prescription of a treatment, and is not intended and must not in any way replace the direct doctor-patient relationship or specialist visit. It is recommended to always seek the advice of your treating physician and/or specialists regarding any indication reported.

Bibliografia :
Guarire con i funghi  del Dottor Ivo Bianchi  Editoriale Programma
Micoterpia per tutti  del Dottor Walter Ardigò
I funghi medicinali : dalla tradizione alla scienza della dottoressa Stefania Cazzavillan  Nuova Ipsa
Cancer  immunology immunotherapy  del Dottor Hong Lin 2010

(1) Full article: A review of the therapeutic and biological effects of …. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/21655979.2021.2001183.
(2) Medicinal mushrooms: Valuable biological resources of high exploitation …. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/11263504.2017.1301590.
(3) Medicinal mushrooms as potential therapeutic agents in the treatment of …. https://italianmycology.unibo.it/article/download/15023/15295/62216.

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MUSHROOMS? yes, but not only at lunch!

The Italian cuisine is rich in appetizing dishes based on mushrooms, despite this in all the West they often fear their possible toxicity. In fact, each mushroom has an intrinsic toxic potential and an extrinsic toxicity, the latter originated from the environment in which it is found and which provides contamination from: chemical principles, radioactive agents and heavy metals. Among the 140,000 existing species of mushrooms, very few are edible.

In the East, for centuries now, some mushrooms have been used daily in cooking and are even part of Traditional Chinese Medicine, Tibetan and Japanese Medicine. But what are these mushrooms that are considered real medicinal remedies and elixirs of long life and above all, what do they contain?

Shiitake, Maitake, Cordyceps, Reishi and Agaricus blazei

are among the best-known mushrooms with scientifically proven therapeutic properties. Although each of them has its own characteristics, they all share the same functional substances called Beta-glucans. Several recent scientific studies have highlighted how these polysaccharides are useful for the health of the body, acting favorably on the intestinal microbiota and on the immune system, modulating it and making it more reactive based on the response against attacks from external viruses and bacteria.

But what are beta-glucans?

They are complex sugars (polysaccharides) located in the cell walls of mushrooms. They are also commonly found in algae, whole grains especially oats and barley. However, beta-glucans present in mushrooms have a particular structure that makes them unique and much more powerful for immune defenses than those present in barley and oats. Think that the action of a few grams of beta-glucans contained in medicinal mushrooms is equivalent to an abundant plate of barley and oats.
Certainly! Here’s a technical translation of your article:

The peculiarity lies in the fact that they are able to activate the immune system in a gentle and balanced way, stimulating the production of T lymphocytes and NK cells (natural killer) and promoting apoptosis, i.e. the death, of tumor cells. For this reason, mushrooms can be defined as immunomodulatory and antioxidant remedies with antitumor action. However, we have said that beta-glucans are beneficial for the intestinal microbiota and this is true in the sense that they also have a “prebiotic” effect, i.e. they are nourishment for our intestinal bacteria, whose balance is fundamental for the entire homeostasis or for the balance of our body. There is another important characteristic of mushrooms that we have not yet mentioned, which is their content of micronutrients such as vitamins, minerals and trace elements that make them an excellent support for integrating nutritional deficiencies that modern nutrition entails. We at Spezierie Palazzo Vecchio, referring to numerous studies over the last 30 years, have formulated MICOCOMPLEX – BIO a product based on 5 MEDICINAL MUSHROOMS: SHITAKE ,MAITAKE ,CORDYCEPS,REISHI and ABM (AGARICUS BLAZEI MULLER). The extracts of the mushrooms present in this supplement are  declared and standardized in beta-glucan content; they are also organic to avoid any risk of contamination from heavy metals. This risk actually exists in uncontrolled cultivations because mushrooms, as we said, are real soil sweepers.

Readthe post MICOCOMPLEX – BIO per la descrizione dettagliata delle proprietà di ciascuno dei funghi contenuti nell’integratore

FRANCESCA MAESTRELLI

ERBORISTA, IRIDOLOGA  e AROMATERAPEUTA

WARNING: The information contained on this site is presented for informational purposes only and can in no way constitute the formulation of a diagnosis or the prescription of a treatment, and is not intended and must not in any way replace the direct doctor-patient relationship or specialist visit. It is recommended to always seek the advice of your treating physician and/or specialists regarding any indication reported.

For advices or request of information please contact us on the live chat or call us at 0552396055 or write to info@spezieriepalazzovecchio.it

Bibliografia :
Guarire con i funghi  del Dottor Ivo Bianchi  Editoriale Programma
Micoterpia per tutti  del Dottor Walter Ardigò
I funghi medicinali : dalla tradizione alla scienza della dottoressa Stefania Cazzavillan  Nuova Ipsa
Cancer  immunology immunotherapy  del Dottor Hong Lin 2010

(1) Full article: A review of the therapeutic and biological effects of …. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/21655979.2021.2001183.
(2) Medicinal mushrooms: Valuable biological resources of high exploitation …. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/11263504.2017.1301590.
(3) Medicinal mushrooms as potential therapeutic agents in the treatment of …. https://italianmycology.unibo.it/article/download/15023/15295/62216.

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Chypre or Powdery fragrance? second part

Talc or Powdery? There is no difference, as these are three terms that describe the same facet of fragrance.

The cipriate facet emerged in the early 1900s thanks to Guerlain, who pioneered the trend of cipriate fragrances with a composition of bergamot, rose, jasmine, vanilla, tonka bean, and iris. The powdery note is so named because it evokes the powder of our grandmothers. In 1980, this facet was modernized with the addition of musky notes. Today, synthetic materials such as methylionon, which replicates the aroma of violet that cannot be extracted from flowers, heliotropine, and coumarin, which is an isolate of tonka bean, enrich this facet. Natural cipriate notes include violet leaves, carrot, broom, mimosa, and hay.

What comes to mind and heart when encountering a cipriate fragrance? Silky, precious, soft, noble, powdery, intimate.

My father created cipriate fragrances such as TALCO DELICATO, VIOLETTA DI BOSCO and LA VECCHIA SPEZIERIA. In recent years, I have created cipriate fragrances paired with another facet, such as woody for AMITA and citrus for ASLI.

TALCO DELICATO is our quintessential cipriate fragrance, composed of Sicilian Lemon, Coumarin, Sweet Woods, Honey, and Cream. This fragrance is a sweet childhood memory, the taste of limoncello, a captivating fragrance that exudes retro elegance and settles on the skin like a soft kiss on the neck. A drop of honey falls into the bottle, and Woods fall asleep on a bed of blooming violets, in the shade of a lemon tree. The violet, a symbol of simplicity and humility, often goes unnoticed, possessing not only a striking color but an even more magical scent. According to French legend, the face of a loved one can be seen in the petals of this flower. An enchantment straight out of a fairytale.

Francesca Di Massimo

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SKINCARE ROUTINE for ALIPIDIC SKIN

BEAUTY AND SKIN CARE TREATMENT FOR DRY AND ROUGH SKIN

Avoid harsh cosmetics: prolonged use of aggressive, poor quality, or alcohol-based cosmetics can deplete the skin’s hydro-lipid film, thereby promoting dryness of the skin. Even frequent washing can negatively affect the skin’s hydration levels. (1)

CLEANSING: This is why it is important to use gentle cleansers like ULTRA-GENTLE CREAM BIODETERGENT first. Its formula, composed of only three ingredients, makes it an extremely gentle product that does not alter the hydro-lipid barrier. In addition, thanks to its creamy texture, only a small amount with little water is enough to deeply cleanse the skin without foaming. These characteristics also make it an excellent makeup remover to use as an alternative to micellar waters, which often tend to dry out the skin.

SERUM: The LA BARRIERA DEL TEMPO facial serum already has an explanatory name: the synergy of Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, Coenzyme Q10, and Resveratrol restores integrity to the hydro-lipid layer, thus creating a barrier capable of counteracting the signs of time and skin aging.

CREAM: For the evening, we recommend the IMMUNO 6 facial cream based on Argan Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Resveratrol, Rhodiola Rosea, Coenzyme Q-10, Pomegranate, and Ginkgo Biloba. The active ingredients, due to their high concentration and synergistic action, fight and reduce the formation of free radicals that cause skin cell aging. In addition, they exert a marked antioxidant action and stimulate cellular renewal and microcirculation, giving dull and opaque skin a new radiance.

In the presence of expression lines in the morning, use VITALITY cream: its formula based on Macadamia Oil, high and low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyltetrapeptide 9, and Carnosine gives the skin a plump and nourished appearance.

And for the body? After showering, do not forget to apply products based on Shea Butter such as SUPERNOURISHING SHEA BUTTER CREAM with Vit. E, olive oil, and Fomblin, excellent for giving the skin a “barrier effect”. Alternatively, VEGETABLE OILS such as ARGAN and ALMOND are also excellent, as they deeply nourish and being “oily” themselves, they reconstitute the lipidic part of the skin. A tip? Apply them to damp skin to promote absorption!

by CHIARA DUILIO
BIOLOGIST

REFERENCES

  1. https://www.my-personaltrainer.it/bellezza/pelle-secca.html
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DRY SKIN: WHY IT’S CORRECT TO CALL IT “ALIPIDIC”

Dry or Alipidic Skin

Dry skin is a skin type that characterizes most people, but is often not properly defined. To be precise, the term “dry skin” refers to alipidic skin (literally “lacking in lipids”): skin dryness is due to insufficient sebum secretion. The lower production of skin oils makes the skin more fragile and sensitive, prone to wrinkles and other signs of aging. This should not be confused with dehydrated skin, which is a temporary condition and not a skin type. In this case, the deficiency affects the water component, and often this condition is a direct consequence of having dry skin as a base. (1)

This is because our skin is superficially composed of a hydro-lipidic layer, consisting of lipids (oils) and water. If the lipid component is deficient, the barrier is compromised, resulting in transepidermal water loss and dehydration. Dry skin can be associated with skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, or ichthyosis: consultation with a dermatologist is essential in these cases, as prescription products may be indispensable.

APPEARANCE

Dry skin tends to appear pale, with loss of elasticity and in some cases, inflammation. If it affects the face, pores appear tightened and blackheads are rare. In severe cases, it presents clinical signs of scaling or cracking. Moreover, unlike oily skin, dry skin is much more prone to premature skin aging: it is not uncommon for individuals with dry skin to complain of expression lines and crow’s feet on the face.

CAUSES AND REMEDIES

The main causes of dry skin are skin disorders, advanced age, or genetic predisposition, but healthy habits can intervene on the risk factors that can lead to this type of skin.

First of all, pay attention to your diet: the deficiency of some vitamins (especially vitamin A) can cause dry skin. It is therefore important to ensure adequate vitamin intake for the body, not only to keep the skin in full health. (1) Also, remember to drink at least 1.5 liters of water per day to keep the skin hydrated from the inside.

Protect your skin from external weather conditions: especially in summer, but also in winter, the skin should be protected from UV rays. For summer, use creams with very high protection factor, such as SUPER PROTECTIVE SUN CREAM SPF 50+; due to climate change, UV rays penetrate more and more atmospheric layers, which no longer represent a sufficient barrier to protect the skin from solar damage and dehydration. In winter, use a lightweight moisturizer with a sunscreen; REGENERATING BIO CREAM, thanks to hyaluronic acid and SPF 15, protects from UV rays while simultaneously hydrating. To protect yourself from wind and excessively cold temperatures, use CHAMOMILE and CALENDULA CREAM, which, thanks to its rich texture and emollient formula, creates a protective film on the skin and restores the lipid barrier.

by CHIARA DUILIO
BIOLOGIST

 

BIBLIOGRAFIA

  1. https://www.my-personaltrainer.it/bellezza/pelle-secca.html
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SENSITIVE SKIN OR ALLERGY?

How to define sensitive skin

Sensitive skin is defined as skin that, unless suffering from certain skin diseases, is more predisposed to negatively react to chemical or physical agents. In addition, sensitive skin is more susceptible to allergies, redness, irritation, itching, and skin burning. (1) However, sensitive skin is not always synonymous with allergy: often the general symptoms of skin hypersensitivity are mistakenly judged to be warning signs of intolerance or allergies to certain cosmetic ingredients. In reality, common sensitive skin does not refer to any immunological cause. (1)

There are some aspects through which sensitive skin can be recognized:

Sensation of burning and stinging skin, which is accentuated with the application of certain cosmetic products
Skin with little elasticity
Marked tendency to skin peeling
Skin itching
Dry, arid, dehydrated, and cracked skin
Skin that feels tight

Furthermore, people who report skin hypersensitivity are statistically more prone to early formation of wrinkles and other aesthetic concerns associated with photo-aging. (1)

Sensitive skin is a very subjective phenomenon, making it difficult to establish precise and universal parameters to objectively ascertain the condition of skin hypersensitivity. (1) Nevertheless, we have compiled a list of generally useful precautions and advice for all those who have sensitive skin, whatever the degree of hypersensitivity:

Use products that are dermatologically tested on sensitive skin, namely on pre-selected volunteers who have sensitive skin;

  • Look for products formulated with moisturizing and soothing functional substances such as ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, bisabolol, calendula extract, chamomile extract, etc.;
  • Fragrance or no fragrance? It depends! Nowadays, most fragrances that are included in cosmetic formulas are hypoallergenic, namely they contain a very low concentration of allergens or are completely free of them.
  • However, fragrance-free formulas can also contain cosmetic ingredients that may cause sensitivity reactions on certain skins.

this is the skin care rotuine that we recommend for sensitive skin

New product? Do a DIY patch test! This involves applying a layer of product to the arm, neck, or a small area of the face and leaving it on for 24 hours, during which time the area should not be washed. The next day, observe if there are any redness or irritation on the area. If nothing is observed, the product is suitable for your skin type.
Introduce one new product at a time. Avoid testing 5-6 new products simultaneously, but wait at least 2-3 days between one new product and another, so that if there are any sensitivity reactions, you can easily understand what the cause is, namely the product causing such a reaction.
Do not cleanse and exfoliate excessively! You could alter the hydro-lipidic film, the layer that protects our skin, thereby increasing the sensitivity to cosmetic products or other factors that then turn out to be aggressive at the skin level.

by CHIARA DUILIO
BIOLOGIST

BIBLIOGRAFIA

https://www.my-personaltrainer.it/benessere/pelle-sensibile.html
https://www.yumibio.com/it/blog/post/lhamamelis-proprieta-e-benefici-.html
https://www.mypersonaltrainer.it/benessere/pelle-sensibile.html

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Cutaneous hyperpigmentation

Cutaneous hyperpigmentation

is a skin condition characterized by the presence of more or less extensive dark spots or areas. Usually, these spots are due to abnormal and excessive melanin production (hyperpigmentation), which can occur for various reasons, primarily exposure to UV rays. Other causes can be skin injuries, the presence of acne, and hormonal imbalances.

Depending on the causes, cutaneous hyperpigmentation is divided into two types:

Diffuse: spots are associated with vitamin deficiencies, metabolic causes, autoimmune diseases, or some medications. In this case, it is recommended to consult a dermatologist as it is essential to accurately document physical conditions, timing, onset, symptom duration, and other details.

Localized: refers to post-inflammatory spots, such as post-acne spots, melasma, or age spots. In this case, cosmetic treatments can be used; if this is not enough, consult a dermatologist.

Let’s now take a closer look at localized spots:

MELASMA: also known as hormonal hyperpigmentation, is caused by high levels of estrogen, to the extent that it appears especially during hormone therapy, pregnancy, or contraceptive treatment (e.g., birth control pill). This condition is exacerbated by sun exposure, especially if you expose yourself to the sun without sun protection.

AGE SPOTS: also known as photoaging spots, are caused by overexposure to the sun, which triggers an overproduction of melanin. In addition to exposure to UV rays, there is exposure to pollutants, dust, and gas: a mix favorable to free radicals that unleash their oxidizing action and lead to premature photoaging.

POST-INFLAMMATORY SPOTS: caused by acquired hypermelanosis that occurs following an inflammatory response or skin injury. The most common example is represented by post-acne spots. These spots worsen significantly if not protected with sunscreen.

As we have said, for this type of spots, in some cases, a cosmetic treatment may be sufficient. Therefore, it is necessary to adopt proper skincare using specific products for hyperpigmentation, without forgetting the essential steps for the general well-being of the skin. Do not underestimate the importance of cleansing and the needs of different skin types depending on age, nutrition, and hydration.

Let’s now see what are the useful and specific cosmetic active ingredients for the treatment of localized spots:

EXFOLIATING ACIDS: salicylic acid and glycolic acid are the most common. Their exfoliating action depends not only on the ability to stimulate the physiological turnover of epidermal cells but also on helping the skin to get rid of dead cells from the most superficial layers, leaving room for new ones. The “strength” of the peeling depends on the concentration of exfoliating acids: it is not so much age that determines when and how that particular acid should be used but the “condition” of the skin. For this reason, before using these acids, it is necessary to seek advice from a dermatologist to avoid irritations and the risk of photosensitization.

NIACINAMIDE: counters spots because it can inhibit the transfer of melanin pigments from the basal layer, where melanin forms, to the stratum corneum, the most superficial layer of the skin. It also protects against aging because it promotes collagen synthesis and has an antioxidant action. It can be used morning and evening.
We can find Niacinamide in IMMUNO 6 CREAM: a concentrate of antioxidant, nourishing, and anti-aging active ingredients, which makes this cream a complete product that evens, hydrates, and nourishes the skin simultaneously. Its rich texture makes it an excellent night cream, and in the case of very dry skin, also a day cream.
RETINOL: In addition to stimulating collagen production, it also stimulates deep cell turnover. This latter action should not be confused with exfoliation! Once absorbed by the skin, retinol communicates to skin cells to produce new ones, without exerting an exfoliating action.

The only caution: retinol is photosensitizing, so it should only be applied to the skin in the evening. The morning after use, remember to always use a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher.

We find it in LA NOTTE DI ANGELICA: the combination of Retinol, Vitamin C and Vitamin E reduces oxidative stress that the skin undergoes due to both aging and external factors. As we mentioned, the presence of retinol makes it suitable for exclusive nighttime use.

VITAMIN C: This substance is very common in the cosmetic world, as it has both lightening and anti-aging properties. Its lightening power is based on its ability to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin, whose production is thus reduced. Its anti-aging action, on the other hand, depends on the fact that it stimulates collagen production and is also an effective preventative against free radical damage that causes cellular aging.

For an intensive vitamin C treatment, combining a serum and a cream based on this active ingredient is optimal, such as the LIGHTENING VITAMIN SERUM and JEUNESSE NIGHT&DAY CREAM: the serum acts in the deeper layers of the skin, the cream on the superficial layer. Both products have a marked lightening and anti-aging action and can be used both day and night.

ROSE HIP OIL: for those with very dry skin who prefer to use oils rather than creams, this vegetable oil is a valid alternative to lighten not only spots, but also scars and stretch marks. The ROSE HIP OIL STICK is 100% natural and cold-pressed, and thanks to its 10ml roll-on stick version, it is very practical to apply to the face or hands. For larger areas, we recommend the 100ml ROSE HIP OIL.

And then an ESSENTIAL product when it comes to skin spots: BIO SUN CREAM SPF 50+. For those with hyperpigmentation, this product should be part of their daily skincare routine, even on winter sunny days. In the morning, after applying moisturizer, simply apply a thin layer for prolonged protection. In addition to shielding existing spots, it prevents the appearance of new spots, but above all, it protects the skin from photo-aging, preventing the appearance of wrinkles.

by CHIARA DUILIO
BIOLOGIST

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TOO SHINY AND OILY SKIN

We often complain about sebum, but we must know that sebum is a fundamental constituent of our skin. It is synthesized and secreted by sebaceous glands and chemically consists of squalene, fatty acids triglycerides, and cholesterol.

But why is it so important?

It contributes to the formation of the hydrolipidic film;
It creates a semipermeable barrier that opposes transepidermal water loss, therefore indirectly providing hydration;
It regulates the skin pH;
It has antibacterial action.

In some people, however, sebum is produced in excess, and the skin appears shiny, greasy, and more prone to impurities, giving rise to the so-called “oily skin.” The main cause of oily skin lies in a personal predisposition that determines an alteration in the production of hormones that regulate sebum production. The condition can worsen during periods of high stress or in certain climatic conditions, such as during hot and humid summer days. The increase in sebum production alters the composition of the hydrolipidic film and impairs the physiological functions of the skin. The excess lipid content makes cutaneous transpiration difficult, clogs skin pores, and promotes the growth of pathogenic microorganisms. As a result, individuals with oily skin often experience inflammation, redness, blackheads, whiteheads, and may develop seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, or acne, depending on the type of oily skin.

a cura di CHIARA DUILIO
BIOLOGA

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SKINCARE ROUTINE FOR OILY SKIN

DAILY ROUTINE FOR BEAUTY AND CARE OF OILY SKIN

Here are the recommended products for proper skincare for oily skin:

DOUBLE CLEANSING
For oily skin, double cleansing may be recommended: it consists of two steps in which an oil-based cleanser or actual oil is used first, followed by a surfactant cleanser. The double cleansing process can clean the face more thoroughly and remove impurities, excess sebum, and makeup.

In the first step, the oil-based cleanser only incorporates substances to be removed on the surface (often makeup and excess sebum) due to their chemical structure. An oil, preferably natural and cold-pressed, such as almond, jojoba, or macadamia oil, is chosen for this purpose.

For the second step, which removes residues from the previous cleansing, particularly aggressive and foaming detergents should be avoided. The skin could temporarily dry out, stimulating further sebum production in compensation. That’s why we recommend the ULTRA GENTLE CREAMY BIOCLEANSER. Its formula, consisting of only three ingredients, makes it an extremely gentle product that doesn’t alter the skin’s hydro-lipid barrier. Furthermore, its creamy texture requires only a small amount with little water to deeply cleanse the skin without foaming.

CREAMS AND OILS
The ideal treatment for oily skin involves the use of sebum-regulating substances that act on the sebaceous glands, rebalancing sebum production.

For younger skin, a natural moisturizer and sebum normalizer in one product may be sufficient. In this case, paradoxically, one of the best treatments is an oil: COLD-PRESSED JOJOBA OIL, the least greasy of vegetable oils, can also be found in stick form with a roll-on applicator for easier application on the face.

One advantage of having oily skin is that wrinkles tend to appear later than in dry skin. However, even for more mature oily skin, it’s recommended to use products that prevent cellular aging and contain active ingredients that continue to regulate sebum production. Niacinamide-containing creams are recommended, as it reduces the triglycerides and fatty acids in surface sebum. Niacinamide can be found in IMMUNO 6 cream, along with other highly antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients such as Resveratrol, Rhodiola Rosea, Pomegranate, and Ginkgo Biloba.

Retinoids, such as vitamin A, also reduce sebum production and normalize skin keratinization. However, since they are photosensitizing, they are mainly found in night creams such as LA NOTTE DI ANGELICA. In addition to vitamin A, it reduces oxidative stress on the skin thanks to vitamin C and E, delaying skin aging.

WHAT ABOUT PIMPLES AND BLACKHEADS?
As mentioned earlier, those with oily skin often have pimples or blackheads.

As a purifying treatment to be applied only on affected areas at night, LENIDERM PLUS cream is recommended to tighten pores and disinfect the skin, thanks to Tea Tree Oil, a skin rebalancing and antibacterial agent, Sage, a natural astringent, and Bisabolol, a chamomile extract that has a soothing and emollient effect on pimples and skin inflammations.

read more on too oily and shiny skin

by CHIARA DUILIO
BIOLOGIST