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Chypre or Powdery fragrance? second part

Talc or Powdery? There is no difference, as these are three terms that describe the same facet of fragrance.

The cipriate facet emerged in the early 1900s thanks to Guerlain, who pioneered the trend of cipriate fragrances with a composition of bergamot, rose, jasmine, vanilla, tonka bean, and iris. The powdery note is so named because it evokes the powder of our grandmothers. In 1980, this facet was modernized with the addition of musky notes. Today, synthetic materials such as methylionon, which replicates the aroma of violet that cannot be extracted from flowers, heliotropine, and coumarin, which is an isolate of tonka bean, enrich this facet. Natural cipriate notes include violet leaves, carrot, broom, mimosa, and hay.

What comes to mind and heart when encountering a cipriate fragrance? Silky, precious, soft, noble, powdery, intimate.

My father created cipriate fragrances such as TALCO DELICATO, VIOLETTA DI BOSCO and LA VECCHIA SPEZIERIA. In recent years, I have created cipriate fragrances paired with another facet, such as woody for AMITA and citrus for ASLI.

TALCO DELICATO is our quintessential cipriate fragrance, composed of Sicilian Lemon, Coumarin, Sweet Woods, Honey, and Cream. This fragrance is a sweet childhood memory, the taste of limoncello, a captivating fragrance that exudes retro elegance and settles on the skin like a soft kiss on the neck. A drop of honey falls into the bottle, and Woods fall asleep on a bed of blooming violets, in the shade of a lemon tree. The violet, a symbol of simplicity and humility, often goes unnoticed, possessing not only a striking color but an even more magical scent. According to French legend, the face of a loved one can be seen in the petals of this flower. An enchantment straight out of a fairytale.

Francesca Di Massimo

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SKINCARE and BEAUTY ROUTINE for DEHYDRATED SKIN

The DAILY BEAUTY and SKIN CARE ROUTINE is essential for maintaining hydrated and healthy skin.

Here are some tips on how to hydrate your skin:

  • Reduce or suspend exfoliation to avoid further stressing the skin.
  • Avoid aggressive cleansers that can dry out the skin.
  • Instead, use gentle cleansers without chemical surfactants such as ULTRA-GENTLE CREAMY BIODETERGENT. Its formula, composed of only three ingredients, makes it a very gentle product that does not alter the skin’s hydro-lipidic barrier. Also, thanks to its creamy texture, a small amount with little water is enough to deeply cleanse the skin without foaming. These characteristics also make it an excellent makeup remover to use as an alternative to micellar water, which often tends to dry out the skin.
    Use functional substances that are already part of the skin barrier and need to be replenished.

The most important of these is hyaluronic acid, which, thanks to its high molecular weight structure, can bind a significant amount of water molecules, giving firmness to the deeper layers of the skin. Scientific studies have shown that just 0.1% of hyaluronic acid has hydrating properties. However, to introduce hyaluronic acid externally, it must have a combination of high and low molecular weight molecules. The low molecular weight allows it to better penetrate the barrier created by the hydro-lipidic film.

HYALURONIC ACID FACE SERUM is based on pure hyaluronic acid with low and high molecular weight concentrations of 1% for immediate action. It keeps the skin naturally hydrated for a long time, thanks to the higher concentration of high molecular weight. It also gives volume and smoothes expression lines with a natural and marked lifting effect thanks to the low molecular weight component.

To enhance the effect, it is essential to combine the serum, which acts on the deeper layers, with a cream that “blocks” the serum and acts on the surface layer.

The BIOCREMA RIGENERANTE CONTORNO OCCHI has a delicate formula that allows it to be used on the eye area. It also contains hyaluronic acid and sun filter, useful characteristics to prevent dehydration.

For oily skin, this dehydration treatment is sufficient. If the skin is dry, as a night treatment, a richer cream is recommended, preferably with ceramides and oils to reconstitute the lipid part of the skin barrier, and anti-aging ingredients to counteract the appearance of wrinkles.

To act on both fronts, we recommend the IMMUNO 6 face cream based on Argan Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Resveratrol, Rhodiola Rosea, Coenzyme Q-10, Pomegranate, and Ginkgo Biloba. The active ingredients, due to their high concentration and synergistic action, fight and reduce the formation of free radicals that cause skin cell aging. They also have a marked antioxidant action and stimulate cellular renewal and microcirculation, giving dull and opaque skin a new radiance.

Alternatively, to provide nourishment and restore the skin’s lipid balance, vegetable oils are excellent, particularly ARGAN oil, which, among its characteristics, also stimulates collagen production.

CHIARA DUILIO
BIOLOGIST

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DRY SKIN AND DEHYDRATED SKIN: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE

The terms “dry skin” and “dehydrated skin” are often used interchangeably, but they are not the same thing.

The substantial difference is that dry skin is a skin type and therefore persists over time, while dehydrated skin is a temporary skin condition that can occur in all skin types. Dehydrated skin can have a similar appearance and sensation to dry skin, but it is not an exclusive condition of this skin type. This means that anyone can have dehydrated skin, even oily skin can be dehydrated at the same time due to various factors.

In dehydrated skin, the hydro-lipid content of the stratum corneum shows a lack of water component. This component is important for the barrier function, protection against irritants, and mechanical properties of the skin. What are the causes that temporarily lead to dehydrated skin?

These factors include excessive

  • exfoliation
  • use of aggressive or unsuitable products for one’s skin type
  • exposure to sunlight without application of protection
  • weather conditions (cold)
  • stress
  • diet.

These factors alter the hydro-lipid film, leading to excessive trans-epidermal water loss, and therefore dehydration. When it affects the face, the skin appears dull and lifeless.

by CHIARA DUILIO, BIOLOGIST

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Is this scent Chypre or Powdery?

If you don’t know the difference between a Chypre perfume and a Cypriot one, know that you’re in good company. Nevertheless, there is a difference and it lies in the reference raw materials that define the two facets. Today we will talk about the Chypre facet, while we will dedicate the next article to the Powdery facet.

The Chypre accord is a historic accord named after the island of Cyprus, which inspired Francois Coty in 1917 to create his perfume named “Chypre”. It was built on a base accord of Bergamot, Rose, Jasmine, Patchouli, Labdanum, and Oakmoss.

It had such great success that from that moment on, perfumes based on the same base accord were called Chypre. Today’s modern Chypre has replaced natural oakmoss, which is banned in perfumery, with Evernyl, a synthetic molecule that reproduces it fairly faithfully. Jasmine has been replaced by its isolated form, Hedione, and rose is usually also reproduced from natural molecules. Labdanum has been replaced by white musks, synthetic ones that smell clean.

What goes through my mind and heart when I smell a Chypre fragrance? Velvet, intense, deep Bordeaux, determined, solid, mysterious, provocative.

LA NOTTE DI ANGELICA

Our Chypre perfume is LA NOTTE DI ANGELICA. This fragrance is built on the historic accord and contains natural Bergamot, Patchouli, and Labdanum, while Rose and Jasmine are two reconstructed bases. In addition to the base accord, this wonderfully feminine and intense perfume contains honey, beeswax, and natural essential oils such as Elemi, Benzoin, Guaiac wood, Mandarin, Lime, Ebony and Cedarwood.

LA NOTTE DI ANGELICA is a perfume suitable from dusk onwards, it wants the darkness and mystery that only the night can give.

Francesca Di Massimo

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But why is this vanilla so special!

We at Spezierie Palazzo Vecchio have always loved vanilla, it was its founder Dr. Di Massimo, my father, who fell in love with her when this raw material had not yet gained the limelight.

Since then most of our perfumes contain vanilla even maybe a small percentage. Vanilla is a base note, very persistent and with a medium intensity. Our VANIGLIA DEL MADAGASCAR perfume was already on the shelf on the day of the opening of our herbal shop on December 8, 1990. Together with perfumes based on raw materials that were very fashionable at the time such as Lily of the Valley, Honeysuckle and our Caterina de ‘ Medici, the VANIGLIA DEL MADAGASCAR, a Gourmand perfume, was an absolute novelty for niche perfumery. The term Gourmand in fact entered the language only in 1992.

Our Vanilla was thus born from an idea of my father who chose to use only natural vanillin by mixing Madagascar vanilla with Mexican vanilla, the first fatter and softer with delicate and floral aromas and the second hotter, more powerful and strongly chocolaty. Combined with creamy and white floral notes, it is today our best-selling perfume in the world, mentioned in various perfume books, reviewed in dozens of videos as one of the most persistent and pleasantly edible vanilla scents.

And that’s why we can’t stop creating new vanilla scented products. The VANIGLIA DEL MADAGASCAR body lotion and shower gelV have long been part of the collection. But from today we also have the new LIP GLOSS VANIGLIA DEL MADAGASCAR: an all-natural product based on castor seed oil and glittery beeswax for a super bright effect and delicately scented with vanilla.

And soon a new scented bag for wardrobes and drawers will arrive with our unmistakable Vanilla aroma.

To crown it all, the oil painting on canvas “Vanilla Orchid” by Paulina Jakubiuk that we bought two years ago, on display in our shop in Florence and that we have reproduced on all the cases.

In short, vanilla lovers can have an olfactory feast here!